Exterior Window Trim Replacement

When replacement beats repair

Patching makes sense for small, contained rot. Once damage spreads through more than a third of a casing or sill, or shows up in multiple boards, full replacement is the better long-term call. Patching active rot under fresh paint only buys a season.

Material options

Cellular PVC

The most rot-proof choice. PVC doesn't absorb water, doesn't feed insects, and stays straight. It costs more up front but eliminates the most common Nashville failure mode.

Fiber-cement and composite

Engineered options like LP SmartSide and fiber-cement trim resist rot far better than untreated wood and look closer to traditional lumber than PVC. Cut ends and fastener holes get sealed during install so water has nowhere to enter.

Cedar or matched wood

For historic homes where authenticity matters, profiles get milled or sourced to match the original. Cedar handles humidity better than pine and finishes beautifully.

Profile matching

Skinny modern trim looks wrong on bungalows, Victorians, and older Colonials. A profile gauge gets used on an intact window before sourcing stock so the replacement reads correctly from the curb.

Flashing and the bigger picture

If water got in once because the flashing was wrong, replacing the trim alone means you'll be replacing it again. Missing or failed flashing — kickouts, head flashing, sill pans — gets corrected during the replacement.

Finish work

Replacement trim is primed on all six sides, fastened with stainless or coated nails, caulked at the right joints, and painted to match. The finish work is done so it disappears into the rest of the house.